Everything in this fragrance is wonderfully proportionate. It’s bright, but not loud; festive, yet homely cozy; warm, even hot, yet at the same time floral and light, orange-tonic — and charmingly old-fashioned; you can feel both the original, which will soon be half a century old, and the signature style of the Saint Laurent house. This version doesn’t smell like it was introduced in 2009 — and that’s for the better.

The differences between it and the Eau de Parfum released in the same year are not very significant, but I prefer the Eau de Toilette — it’s less balsamic, and due to a shift in balance towards flowers and citrus, it seems more youthful and even masculine.